The trail of the Caribbean coast

It´s been a week of sand, sunshine and unfortunately horribly sticky humidity.  We left the tranquil mountains of Boquete and headed north to the Caribbean coast and the town on Bocas del Torro.  The drive was really pretty and scenic, through little farms, rolling hills and quaint villages.  A final boat ride out to the archipelago of Bocas del Torro finished out journey.

The town of Bocas was a bit of a ramshackle place with scruffy looking buildings and surfing dudes rambling along the streets.  Half of the buildings lined the wide main street with the other half hanging out over the water on stilts.  We had two days there and were keen to escape the town as non of us were very impressed.

Day one was spent out on a boat exploring the bays and national marine park.  We had been promised a wonderful sounding trip and ended up a little disappointed as we spent a lot of time waiting around.  However, what we saw was lovely and made up for the delays in boats.  Snorkeling proved to be fun, although the visibility was low.  The colours of the coral were really vibrant and weird and wacky coral formations lined the ocean floor.  Wide, bumpy tubes in deep purple and bright turquoise rose up and in some ways looked like futuristic Christmas trees with other coral draped around like tinsel.  I could have spent ages, just floating on the water as there is always something interesting to spy wherever you look.

Back on the deck it was lunch time and a delicious picnic that we had brought filled us up after all the snorkeling.  The stop after lunch was to Red Frog Beach.  So named because you can see poisonous red tree frogs there.  The beach was rugged and wild with strong waves and currents.  Flanked along the shore was tropical rainforest with overhanging palms waving in the breeze.  It was different from the beaches of San Blas and truly a beautiful place.  A quick dip just a little way in to the sea cooled us form the stifling humidity of the day.  Heading back to the boat, we spotted some lazy sloths in the trees just hanging out.  I love sloths, they are just so cute!

The extremely cute sloth hanging 
out in the tree tops!

The small, but highly poisonous red tree frog.

Red Frog Beach

The second day in Bocas was quite busy.  Amy and I took a chocolate tour in the morning back on the main land which was so fascinating.  They took us around a chocolate farm and told us all about how the chocolate is made and went through all the processes.  The best bit was tasting the most delicious chocolate at the end.  We had watched the beans being roasted, ground into a paste and then melted over an open fire.  It was all 100% organic and oh my goodness me....it was sooooooo yummy!!!!  Back down at the bottom of the farm we were treated to a local lunch of the leaves and roots from one of the plants that we had seen growing on the farm.  That was really good too, although not as good as the chocolate!!

Believe it or not, this is how 
chocolate begins.

Preparing to eat the most heavenly 
chocolate I will probably 
EVER taste!!

In the afternoon we decided to hire bikes and head to Playa Bluff.  It was an 8km cycle along the main road so not too much of a challenge.  The journey there was half the fun.  It was road for most of it, but then turned to a seriously sandy road where you needed your wits about you in order to stay on the bike!  Our journey was interrupted when Amy got a puncture but we returned to town, changed bikes and set off again.  The rain decided to descend upon us so we were rather wet when we arrived at Playa Bluff but were greeted with yet another pristine beach and this one was deserted!  Sadly, our time there was short as the light was fading and we knew that we had the challenge of the sand road.  The rain was heavier and distant rumbles of thundered filled the sky.  Needless to say that we peddled home rather faster than we peddled out!

The girls and the bikes!

Playa Bluff, Bocas del Torro, Panama

It was time to leave Panama after Bocas and head north along the Caribbean coast into Costa Rica.  First stop was the touristy town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.  Renowned for amazing beaches, good surfing and a laid back feel, it was a must stop on a trail along the coast.  We were not disappointed with what we found.  Quaint little streets were filled with nice shops selling their wares and the beach stretched for miles.  We decided to rent bikes and head further along the coast to the Punta Uva beach.  This was similar to the beaches of Bocas with the jungle running along the sand.  The obligatory dip in the sea turned into an hours float and wave riding as once again the humidity had worn us down.  The pretty cycle ride home through the jungle was broken up with a delicious milkshake and afternoon piece of cake in the cute little chocolate cafe along the side of the road.

The scenic road from Puerto Viejo to Punta Uva.

Amy and I having a cool off in the 
Caribbean sea at Punta Uva.

With rather sore bottoms from two days of riding bikes, Amy and I headed out in search of more adrenaline fun in the form of whitewater rafting.  I´ve rafted many times, but it was Amy´s first go and my goodness me, what a good river to start on.  The scenery on the Pacuare River was some of the best that I have ever seen.  The virgin rainforest forest grew wild along the banks of the river, birds flew over head and waterfalls gushed and trickled into the river at various different spots along the way.  The rapids were fun too with some exciting grade 4´s and a lot of fun grade 3´s.  Top the day off with a scrumptious lunch (I am always amazed at what they manage to bring in for us to eat on a raft!) by the side of the river and it really was a perfect day.  I just love whitewater rafting, can´t say anymore than that!

Looking like I´m about to take off 
through the rapid!

One of the many waterfalls along the 
gorgeous Pacuare River.

Our final stop on the Caribbean coast was in Tortuguero.  Our usual form of transport around the countries is public buses, however, we were travelling over Easter so booked a private transfer from Puerto Viejo to Tortuguero.  This involved a car then a boat.  We were under the impression that taking a private transfer would be easy and hassle free.  It turned out to be anything but and we were completely messed around from start to finish.  However, we did arrive in Tortuguero on time so even with the hassle, we did get from A to B.

The only reason for taking the 4 hour boat ride along the Tortuguero canal is to hope that you are lucky enough to spot a sea turtle laying eggs along the beach at night.  There are 4 of the 8 species of sea turtle that lay their eggs on the beaches of Tortuguero throughout the year and at the moment it is the season of the Leatherback turtle.  We had a guide that took us out at 10pm and we walked for what seemed like miles along the beach, in the dark, without a torch.  With no sign of a turtle anywhere, feeling rather disheartened and very disappointed, we headed back inland off the beach and walked along the airstrip back in the direction of the town.  About 5 minutes later, there was a phone call, followed by an exclamations from the guide of ´RUN, RUN!´  A turtle had been located and was in the process of covering her nest of eggs before heading back into the sea.  Running was certainly tricky in almost 100% humidity, on sand and in the dark but luckily we made it in time and were rewarded with the astonishing sight of the huge female leatherback turtle meticulously covering her next of freshly laid eggs.  Mother nature really is an amazing thing.  We stood close, but behind so that she could not see us.  The force at which she moved the sand was so powerful that at one point, she had buried my feet from flinging so much sand behind her!!  When she was content with her work, she hauled herself back over the beach and floated off on the waves back into the sea.  Experiences like that are things which are so very special and that you rarely forget.

Leaving the Caribbean coast behind us and hopefully the horrible humidity we have headed inland to La Fortuna and the stunning spectacle that is Volcan Arenal.  The most highly active volcano in Central America.  We are here for a few days and hope to see something exciting from the volcano!