We had high hopes for Volcan Arenal having read that it was the most active volcano in Central America and according to the guide book can frequently be seen steaming and potentially with lava flowing. However, on arrival in La Fortuna, after a hassle free private transfer took us from Tortuguero, we discovered that the volcano has not been active in the last 18 months and is currently 'sleeping'. The was rather a disappointing discovery, but we had exciting plans for the next few days no the less and were hopeful that we would be the 50% of visitors who actually get to see the volcano clear.
We opted for an early morning guided hike to the base of the volcano on the first morning and as well as giving very pretty views of Lake Arenal, it turned out to be a highly education geography lesson about volcanoes. Our guide Edwin was so unbelievably knowledgeable and told us incredibly amounts of information about the formation, history and functions of the volcano. I always loved geography at school and was totally engrossed. The hike was really like a stroll in the park but the rewarding views of the lake and the old lava flows were really worth it (sadly, the top was extremely cloudy). Turns out that this volcano has solid lava. I didn't even know that was possible!!
Views across Lake Arenal. |
Standing on the old lava flow, cloudy Arenal behind. |
Amy and I were in the mood for a serious hike the next day so after visiting the La Fortuna waterfall with Jo, we headed up the large hill of Cerro Chato. We had been told that it was the 'extreme' hike of the area and very tough. We were initially lulled in a false sense of security as it was pretty mellow to start, a gradual incline and easy terrain. However, after 1.3km the hard stuff started and my goodness me did it get steep! Our pace of walking slowed considerably and our heart rates increased considerably! The effort and excursion was worth it though as the views from the top were spectacular. We timed it perfectly as just as we got to the view point above the lake the volcano cleared totally and we could see the two peaks. We made the even steeper scramble down to the lake, taking care not to slip or fall. A dip in the cool lake was a welcome refreshment from the heat of the day. The whole hike was really great and with stunning, clear views of the volcano it made it perfect.
Sweaty, muddy but extremely pleased we made it to the top! |
Volcan Arenal, dominant and clear above Lake Cerro Chato. |
Views of the volcano from the main street in La Fortuna. |
We left La Fortuna after 3 nights and took a very scenic and relaxing jeep-boat-jeep transfer across Lake Arenal to Monteverde. During the short ride across the lake, we were once again blessed with a clear volcano top so the camera was being furiously snapped to try and get the perfect shot. The journey on the other side of the lake gave us what is so far my favourite view of the whole trip. The green hills rolled in perfect patterns, a little farm was positioned exactly in the ideal spot and in the centre of the shot, looming behind everything was Volcan Arenal. The sight took my breath away because it was just so beautiful.
Taking in the views on the boat ride across Lake Arenal. |
Our final, stunning view of the volcano from the otherside of the lake. |
Arriving in Monteverde we found a small, touristy town with restaurants, cafes, hotels and of course numerous tour operators wanting to get you booked onto their offerings. Our hotel was super friendly and we booked all our activities through them.
All three of us are cheese fans so we booked a tour of the Monteverde Cheese Factory. This turned out to be an ok tour which was made infinitely better when they brought us lots of cheese to taste! We decided to walk back the Santa Elena from the cheese factory as the taxi ride there had shown us that everything was much closer than we thought. A stop in a cute bakery and a few local craft shops filled the afternoon.
Next day was pretty busy from start to finish. Jo was not keen on a zip line tour so we opted for the more tame Hanging Bridges. These are a series of pathways through and aerial walkways suspended above the cloud forest. It was a very tranquil walk where we managed to spot a lovely electric blue dragon fly and a coati just mooching around the bridges.
Amy and I stopped off at the Hummingbird Garden on our return to the entrance area and were treated to a marvellous sight. The garden was secluded with pretty coloured tables and stools. Feeder stands dotted around the small garden attracted the hummingbirds. I've never seen a hummingbird before so was keen to see some. Some was an understatement!! There were LOADS of hummingbirds in the garden. The darted and whizzed around at unbelievable speeds, brushing close to us and hovering magically in the air around the feeders. Their distinctive sound was all around the environment and the vibrant colours of their feathers shone in the bright sunshine. We stood, watched and photographed for a while, enjoying being in the presence of these gorgeous little birds.
Enjoying the relaxing stroll through the forest. |
Feeling on top of the forest on one of the highest bridges! |
One of the most vibrant hummingbirds in the garden. |
The next morning was an extremely early start and the unfortunate event of having to say goodbye to Jo. After three amazing weeks of travel have passed so quickly, Jo has to return back to work in London. It was so sad to say goodbye to her and I so wish that she was continuing with us into Nicaragua.
We did the hugs and goodbyes and Amy and I headed for the ticket office to buy our tickets for the next stop on this wonderful adventure with mixed feelings of sadness and excitement all rolled into one. We headed to Nicaragua in search of cheaper fun as Costa Rica and Panama have burned a rather large hole in our wallets!!
Interesting use of foot attire for your hike! At least the bridge looks far more substantial then the one in Indiana Jones. Lucky you in the sun, since the hosepipe came into force at the beginning of April it's started to rain at home - a lot!
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